| A
year or so ago, I remember having one of those dreams where
I kept waking up over and over, each time eventually realizing
I was still dreaming. It was so disturbing that when I finally
woke up for real, I remained firmly unconvinced that the dream
had actually ended.
And so now as I begin preparations for leaving Japan, I at
last understand the look on Simon's face when I met him last
year and Angie prepared to take his place as his teaching
successor. He wore a quiet, dazed expression as he helped
unpack our belongings (mostly his old furniture, some of which
he himself had inherited from his predecessor two
years prior). He answered politely but distantly Angie's questions
about the job, his opinions,and his experiences in Japan.
Simon smiled. "It was. . . indescribable," he struggled
to reply. "I can't believe it's all about to end."
And in all likelihood, it probably wasn't until long after
his plane home to England had landed that the reality of his
having left Japan sank in.
I now face the same prospect: going home, escaping Oz, wrapping
up a year of outrageous and inexplicable cultural experiences
into a neat little package, tossing it into a suitcase and
hitching a flight back to the U.S. But this wasn't just summer
camp or a quick Tour of the Mysterious Orient. The strange
waking dream that is life in Japan lasted so long, made such
an impression, that I cannot simply shake it off and move
on.
When
I was younger, I entertained notions of one day becoming an
astronaut. Even up through graduate school last year, I daydreamed
of seeing the Earth from afar or of walking around on the
surface of Mars. I am forever cured of these dreams, however.
On July 27, 2003, Angie called me from her hotel in Tokyo,
having just arrived in Japan one day before I was scheduled
to get there myself.
I answered the phone groggily, it being 4:30 a.m. where I
was. "Hello? Angie, is that you?" And what followed
sounded a lot like her voice, but my realization of where
she was calling from, combined with my drowsiness, understandably
altered the conversation somewhat:
"HE-LloooOO. . . ChrIS. . . IT is Me I HaVE LAN-ded.
. . Lis-TEN closeLY as I HAVE an impor-TANT MES-sage from
the FU-turE. . . when youR FLIGHt aRrives yoU muST CaLL Me
aT oNCE so wE cAN mAKe pLAns to meET. . . do you UNDERstand
whAT I have just ToLd you?"
I
scratched my head and blinked in bewilderment. Apparently
my wife was calling from the moon. And more alarming, it appeared
in just a few hours I was headed to the same place as her.
Arriving in Tokyo began a blurry, surreal existence that
has completely spanned these past ten months. I can't read
road signs, restaurant menus or ATM instructions. When I try
to speak, only unintelligible nonsense flies out of my mouth,
leaving bystanders scratching their heads in puzzlement. People
come and go in my life and I only barely understand why. I
am treated like a celebrity and a rock star by some, yet met
with suspicion or even derision by others. But no one treats
me just normally, because my very presence here in
this strangest of lands is not the norm.
One glance at my face tells people I am an out-of-place curiosity.
But practically everyone here bends over backwards to guide
me, assist me, look after me, and ultimately help me with
what they see as my final, impending goal: to get safely back
to my home country. And along the way, there have been too
many people to thank and not enough time to thank them as
my time in Japan hurtles toward completion. My flight is booked,
arrangements have been made. All that remains is for me to
smile, bow a lot, exchange addresses and goodbye presents,
and sadly face the obvious truth, that I will only really
ever understand a fraction of what I saw and experienced here.
Despite
all the English conversation classes, the outings with Japanese
friends and countless exchanges with locals, the closest I've
felt to bonding with the Japanese was actually those times
when I wasn't even speaking to them at all: curled up in a
dimly lit room, tossing back drinks and taking turns belting
out karaoke tunes.
For here was a strange and distant glimpse through the telescope
of the life I'd known back on Earth: songs I recognized, and
loud at that. But halfway through my raspy rendition
of House of the Rising Sun, I notice the lyrics on
the screen aren't quite right. Then I realize I can't understand
the fancy remote control. Or read the songlists. But I know
that even though my Japanese friends probably don't understand
half the words I'm singing, nor I the words to their selections,
I'm going to keep on performing, singing and dancing, working
and teaching, wondering and blundering and tripping and slipping
and waving to the schoolchildren on the bus and eating
raw squid without a fuss and not understanding why these visions
grow dim, and finding myself at home, awake again.
"It's not fun," Bill Murray tries to explain
of Japan to his stateside wife, in Lost in Translation.
"It's just really, really different."
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